FoodboombloggerWest Ron W procured a golden ticket to celebrity chef Ludo Lefebvre’s cutting edge spot in L.A. Read on and find out why Ludo may be the best in the West.
Trois Mec, exists inside a former pizza joint (the sign remains). It is nothing more than a small cube with a few tables (seating for 23) and counter space for eight lucky voyeurs.
I queued up for the Chef’s Counter which is prime real estate in this nondescript jewel box. Trois Mec’s team, the Magnificent Seven behind the counter, puts on a performance that was nothing less than Cirque du Soleil with kitchen utensils and copper pots. They wield squeeze bottles like Colt 45’s, flash knives and tweezers and assemble the plates with the surgical precision of a heart transplant team. And this line was engaged and engaging; happy to share the ingredients, tell where else to eat in town, and cracked wise while nudging your Trout Roe into a perfect pyramid.
Celebrity Chef Ludovic (Ludo) Levebre was behind this at least 13 course extravaganza. Unlike his classic French restaurant Petit Trois which is the best in town. Trois Mec is French food by association only and the truly cutting edge compositions served by Ludo transcend most culinary boundaries.
The adventure began with snacks which I attacked like a Gatling Gun. I simply stacked them up in a nice array and gave it all a slo-mo chew even though the tendency is to eat a 33 LP playing at 45 speed for those of you that remember real records.
White Asparagus Veloute (soup shots) with reduced White Wine and caramelized Shallots all blender blitzed.
An Earl Grey Tea and Trout Roe Tart.
Spring Roll of Radicchiolusly good Broccoli Flowers, Zucchini-ettes, and dusted with Fleur de sel.
Crisp Fried Tapioca Cubes with Passionfruit Powder and Parmesan.
Dijon Mustard Creme Brulee.
Cold Lemongrass Gelee with micro buds, refreshing as a sharp slap, with fried Sage and embryonic vegetables. Heirloom Crispy Grains with Avocado, Chili and cold Lovage.
The show was on in full swing and my only knock was that these dishes came out like Robota sushi riding a runaway conveyor belt. The 6:15 tables must flip by 8:45. So there would be no time for flossing or to kneel on the next table to take a photo.
With no change in cadence and it was on to the main courses.
The $24 Alsatian White Asparagus as big as a Partigas Splendido resting in Eel Sauce with white Tonga Beans
A one time special treat (kinda like my Prom Date) was worth it.
Turbot filet in Miso Brown Butter, poached Meyer Lemon for pucker, in Fish Bone Jus…Just for joo.
Toasted Grain coated Apicius Duck Breast with house made whole grain Mustard, grilled baby Endive, Anchovy, Hazelnut Praline and a quenelle of Pear Pudding.Lord, take me now for I have seen the light.
But wait…there’s more. Out comes
Wasabi Sorbet to manhandle your taste buds and keep them sharp.
And thank God the checkered flag of desserts was fluttering just ahead.
Chocolate Mousse with Buckwheat Ice Cream, Irish Crema Panna Cotta with a wispy contrail of E’spelette heat.
A Matcha coated Marshmallowgot et because I could reach it and it was so cute.
Ludo missed nothing in the kitchen or dining room while working like a borrowed mule. Suffice to say the Captain of this ship is disarming and charming. Ludo himself carefully paper toweled away a speck of jus off a dish as if attending a loved one’s wound. He tasted almost everything up and down the line, corrected, counseled, advised, directed, expedited, and served. All while monitoring his 6 cook crew like America’s greatest sailor Dennis Conner, pulling away from the pack to victory.
Trois Mec creates food as good as it gets. Maybe as good as it will ever be. I felt privileged to have carved off a whole chunk of my nest egg and ignored my National debt sized expenses to experience all this. All in with tax tip extras and the wine flight my bill was $640 for two fortunate diners. Hey, when it comes to your belly or a good time, money should be no object.
As I looked around the buzzing dining room I thought that by morning, all that would be left was a protruding stomach, and the memory of what had passed soon to be wiped clean. But no, we were all indelibly imprinted with what food and dining carefully considered and constructed by one of America’s greatest master chefs can attain.